2015|09|30_In the magical Cour du Mûrier of the École nationale supériere des beaux-arts, Ilaria Nistri presents her Spring Summer 2016 collection with a performance event amidst the calendar of the Paris Fashion Week. A presentation which is rarefied, suspended and poetic. A bubble in space and time. The Ilaria Nistri women, rare amazons, sophisticated, proud and ethereal, become living statues portrayed by the students of the Academy of fine arts. Transformed in pencil strokes, aquarelles and markers they vibrate a modern energy and so does the music from Naomi Berrill’s cello that resonates through the courtyard. The SS16 collection plays with a fundamental element of Euclidean Geometry: the straight line. As an essential code - used as a line that repeats itself on fabric, alternating in various colour tones and with each one following the next in a constant succession of shiny and matt. Then, through the process of repetition, breaking and alternation becoming unrecognizable and losing itself in the complexity of the fractal geometry of the prints in the collection. The prints, images of broken, cut, jointed and rhythmic surfaces, are the visual result of complex algorithms used in fractal geometry to describe objects and phenomena present in nature. Through the hands of the artist Andreas Nicolas Fischer - whose research is focused on the relationship between real and digital, nature and mathematics - complex mathematic solutions become creations with an organic appearance that come to life on satins and silk georgettes, giving rise to hypnotic patterns associated to the compact, bright surfaces of elegant fabrics and to prime-quality waxed leathers. The collection is characterized by the heat-sealed shiny rubber tape. The contrast that is the result of combining stiff materials with fluid fabrics and the reinterpretation of the rules of tailoring - playing with structuring and destructuring - giving rise to an alchemy of shapes and volumes that enhance a conscious natural refinement. An informal elegance, relaxed sensuality but never ostentatious.
Chloé Le Drezen for DazedDigital.com